From Bold Italian by Scott Conant with Joanne McAllister Smart. Serves 4.

Imagine taking a walk on a beach on a warm spring day. That’s what this dish reminds me of. You have these bright, slightly crisp vegetables, which get transformed by the juices from the crab, joining them with the flavors of the sea. Tarragon and parsley add a welcome note from the herb garden, while a hint of smoky bacon reminds you that it’s not quite summer. Like lobster, ­soft-­shell crab is best when purchased alive. You can have the crabs cleaned by the fishmonger, but cook them on the same day you buy them. Even better, bring them home alive and clean them yourself as directed in the note. To get the best flavor from the crab—it really is quite amazing when mixed with the pea puree—be sure not to overcook it.

MAKE A PEA PUREE: In a small saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, season with a generous pinch of salt, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add half of the peas and 1 cup chicken broth. Increase the heat to ­medium-­high and cook the peas until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tarragon and parsley. Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor (or use a hand blender right in the pot) and puree it. (You can make the pea puree ahead and refrigerate it; rewarm it before serving and thin it with a little broth if necessary.)

CRISP THE BACON: In a sauté pan, cook the bacon until crispy, adding a teaspoon or so of olive oil, if needed. Remove from the pan, reserve in a warm place, and wipe the pan clean.

COOK THE VEGETABLES: In the same pan, heat 1/2 to 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the remaining peas, the asparagus, green beans, carrot, and scallions. Season with a little salt and cook, stirring occasionally to keep the vegetables from browning, until the vegetables are ­crisp-­tender. (Add a little water if needed to prevent browning.) Divide the vegetables and then the pea puree among four wide bowls or rimmed plates; keep the bowls warm while you fry the crabs.

FRY THE CRABS: On a plate, combine the flour with the tablespoon of salt, the paprika, and a few grinds of pepper. Position the flour mixture near the stove. Also have a few layers of paper towels nearby for draining the crabs.

In a sauté pan large enough to hold the 4 crabs with a little space around them, pour soy or peanut oil to come about 1/3 inch up the sides of the pan. Heat over ­medium-­high heat until the oil is quite hot. Dredge a crab in the flour mixture, coating both sides well. Shake off the excess flour and place the crab in the hot oil “shell” side down. Let the crabs get golden brown on one side and then flip. (Be careful while the crabs are frying; sometimes they pop and spray their now hot juices. If they’re spraying a lot, use a paring knife to poke a hole or two in the belly.) Cook for another 3 to 4 minutes on the second side. Remove them from the oil and drain briefly on paper towels.

TO SERVE: Place a crab in each bowl. (A fun way to present them is to cut the crabs in half, placing one half down in the bowl and the other half standing up with its legs facing up and out of the bowl.) Divide the bacon among the bowls, garnish with a little tarragon and parsley, and serve immediately.

NOTE: To clean live crabs: Cut off the head approximately 1/4 inch below the eyes. Press on the crab a little to squeeze out a green bubble. Remove the gill filaments on each side of the crab by peeling back the pointed soft shell and scraping these inedible gills out with a paring knife. On the belly side, bend back the apron (or tail flap) and pull using a slight twisting motion. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Photograph by Shimon and Tammar